My latest trip to Venice was more than magical, it was surreal. Being the third in a series of visits over many years, I was somewhat familiar with the faded grandeur of this remarkable place, or at least I thought I was. However, really getting to know Venice can be an entrancing lifetime endeavor, in terms of its history, architecture and art, not to mention its regional wines and foods.

On previous trips, I found my way over the bridges, some rustic and some elaborate, and through the narrow streets and still narrower alleys. On this trip, I marveled at the many different periods of architectural styles, studied how the early inhabitants of Venice lived and moved about the lagoons, and was fascinated by the stories of those who called Venice home in the 20th Century.

One of those people was Peggy Guggenheim. Peggy Guggenheim must have been an incredible woman, living in often momentous times and creating momentum and excitement of her own. Born into wealth and art as the daughter of Solomon R. Guggenheim, Peggy’s career changed the course of postwar art in Europe and America. She opened her first gallery in London in 1938, giving exhibitions to somewhat unknown, young American artists such as Jackson Pollock and Robert Motherwell.

An afternoon at Peggy’s palazzo while in Venice is a must for anyone interested in 20th Century art, as well as for those just wanting to spend time in beautiful surroundings accompanied by a rich history and an intriguing personal story.

It is truly one of the finest small museums of modern art in the world.